Get the salt off before the car is parked, not in April
The most important storage step happens before the car reaches its spot. In the GTA the first salting can come in November, sometimes before owners have put their summer cars away, and one drive on wet salted roads coats the arches, rockers and underbody with brine. Park it like that and the salt sits against the metal for five months, drawing moisture every time the garage air turns damp.
So the final drive of the season should end at a wash, ideally one with an underbody rinse, and then a hand wash at home if you can. Pay attention to the places salt hides: inside the wheel arches, the lips of the rocker panels, the bottom edges of the doors and the drain holes along them, the lower lip of the trunk lid and behind the bumpers. On a convertible, clean the soft-top drains too.
Then dry it completely. A car that goes under a cover while still wet in the seams holds that water against the paint. A short drive on dry roads, or an hour with the doors and trunk open in the garage, lets the hidden spots drain before you seal it up for the season.
Wax or seal the paint once it is clean, unless the refinish is still curing
A clean, protected surface stores far better than a dirty one. Once the car is dry, clay any rough spots, and apply a coat of wax or paint sealant. Bird droppings, tree sap and bug residue left on from late summer will keep etching under a cover, so remove them first, gently, with a proper cleaner.
If the car had body work done this season, check when the shop says the paint can be waxed. Fresh refinish needs time to finish curing, and sealing it too early under heavy wax is not recommended. A breathable cover over clean, unwaxed new paint is fine; ask before applying anything.
Look the paint over closely while it is clean. Stone chips on the hood and the front of the mirrors, and any scratch that reaches bare metal, are worth touching up before storage, because exposed steel in a damp garage can start rusting under the cover even without salt.
A breathable fitted cover beats a plastic tarp, which traps condensation
Use a fitted, breathable car cover; skip the hardware-store tarp. A plastic or vinyl tarp traps moisture under it. Every time the garage warms on a mild day and cools again at night, condensation forms on the inside of the sheet and stays against the paint. Tarps also flap and rub, and a loose sheet dragging across the clear coat all winter can leave haze or fine scratches that need polishing in spring.
A good indoor cover is soft on the inside, lets water vapour out, and fits closely enough that it does not move. Put it on a clean car only; grit trapped under any cover acts like sandpaper. If the car must be stored outdoors, an outdoor-rated breathable cover with a soft lining and straps under the body is the minimum, and expect to check it after heavy wind or snow load.
- Breathable fitted cover, soft lining — good for indoor storage
- Outdoor-rated breathable cover with straps — acceptable if no garage is available
- Plastic tarp or vinyl sheet — traps condensation and rubs the paint
- No cover in a dusty shared garage — dust settles and scratches at the first wipe
Damp concrete and mice do more winter harm than cold does
A dry, unheated garage is a perfectly good place to store a car; the danger is dampness. Concrete floors release moisture, especially in the thaws of February and March, and a car parked over damp concrete has a humid layer of air underneath it all winter. A plastic sheet laid on the floor under the car, not over it, cuts that moisture rising from the slab. A small dehumidifier helps in a closed, damp space. Keep the car away from areas where snowmelt from other vehicles collects.
Mice are the other winter visitor. A quiet car in a Toronto garage, condo storage locker or rural barn is shelter for them, and they nest in air filter boxes, cabin vents and trunk insulation, and chew wiring. Block the exhaust tip and air intake with steel wool, with a bright note on the steering wheel to remove it before starting. Set traps around the car, not inside it, and avoid leaving food or pet feed in the same space.
For the mechanical side, follow the owner’s manual: a fuel stabilizer and full tank, a battery maintainer, tires at the recommended storage pressure, and the parking brake left off with wheel chocks, so the pads do not stick to the rotors.
The spring check before the first drive of the season
Before the first spring drive, take ten minutes to inspect the car in daylight. Remove the steel wool and any note. Pop the hood and look for nesting material and chewed wires. Lift the cover slowly and check the paint for haze, rub marks, or water spots where condensation pooled.
Walk around the lower body, the arches and the door bottoms. Any bubbling paint or orange stain at a seam is rust that started over the winter, and it is far cheaper to deal with as a small spot now than after another season. Then wait for a day when the street sweepers have been through and the April salt has washed off the roads before taking the car out; the first drive on a still-salty street undoes the autumn wash.
If you find rub marks, paint damage or a rust spot, a few clear photos are enough for an estimate. Our shop is at Sheppard and Don Mills, an easy drive off the 404 for a car that has been parked all winter.
Questions people ask
Can I reduce my insurance while my summer car is stored?
Many insurance companies offer reduced coverage for a stored vehicle, often keeping comprehensive for theft, fire and damage while parked. Ask yours directly. Remember the car cannot be driven on that reduced coverage, so restore full coverage before the first spring drive.
Is a heated garage better for winter storage than an unheated one?
Not automatically. A steady, dry space matters more than warmth. What hurts is moisture and temperature swings that cause condensation. A dry, unheated garage with a plastic sheet under the car and a breathable cover over it is a sound setup.
Should I start the car every few weeks during storage?
Short idling sessions can do more harm than good, because the engine and exhaust never get hot enough to drive off the moisture they create. A battery maintainer and proper preparation are usually better than periodic starts. Follow your owner’s manual.